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Veneering technique

2009-11-02 05:40:06.305213+00 by Dan Lyke 4 comments

I'm building an organizer for Charlene. It fits on top of an existing piece, which is made of white oak, but white oak is about $10/bf, so I'm using veneer. I finally did a test of the heat method, and it seemed to work, so:

Titebond II, spread on both pieces, the veneer and the substrate, and allowed to dry thoroughly. Iron the pieces together, and the veneer sticks nicely!

I now have the main pieces drying out in the shop, hopefully the technique scales up. I did use a slightly thinned glue on the stuff in the shop.

Other realization: This well dried white oak has lots of internal stresses, and changes dramatically as I cut it. I haven't seen twists and saw kerfs closing up like this since I was ripping construction grade "two-by"s. Almost wish I had more of it to work with. Almost.

[ related topics: Fabrication Woodworking ]

comments in ascending chronological order (reverse):

#Comment Re: made: 2009-11-02 13:36:45.23852+00 by: m

I have never tried veneering, though I do have some cherry veneer that I want to play with. Please let me know how well the scale up for this method works for you.

#Comment Re: made: 2009-11-02 14:38:46.103854+00 by: Dan Lyke

I realized last night that I was probably premature, that I should really wait 'til I assemble one portion 'til I attach the veneer, so it'll be another couple of days. One issue was consistency of spreading, I found a suggestion to use a hacksaw blade to get even stripes of glue, I'll try that next time.

#Comment Re: made: 2009-11-02 14:44:42.874517+00 by: Dan Lyke

Oh dear, that may be a problem: this page says you have 12 hours to reactivate Titebond II. We shall see.

#Comment Re: made: 2009-11-02 16:38:49.677047+00 by: markd

Still, sounds easier than getting an Adobe product reactivated.